“Snowboarding in Colorado is non secular,” stated my buddy Rahul, attempting to persuade me and my household to affix his household on a latest ski trip. “There’s a real sense of house and freedom—and with the nice snow, there’s nothing prefer it.”
To be trustworthy: As an inexperienced skier, I used to be intimidated by the thought of snowboarding within the Rocky Mountains, though I’ve acquired deep roots there going again a number of generations. My great-great-grandfather, Thomas Begley, moved to Colorado through the Gold Rush, and my great-grandfather, grandfather, and pop all grew up in Denver.
However once I heard that Rahul had already plotted out a straightforward (and enjoyable) itinerary in Vail, Breckenridge and Keystone, I made a decision to take the leap. It was useful to have a seasoned veteran guiding the best way, however there was nonetheless loads to be taught as a first-time Colorado skier.
Right here’s what I found on a really epic ski journey.
Taking within the view of the Rocky Mountains in Vail, Colorado.
Beginning Off Straightforward
First off: A unclean little secret. These 4 generations of family members of mine from Colorado? None of them skied and, due to this fact, didn’t go the gene all the way down to me. My mother tried to take me snowboarding at Blue Hills in Massachusetts once I was little, however I cried the entire time. I tried once more in highschool at Afton Alps in Minnesota—the place Lindsey Vonn lower her enamel—however let’s simply say I used to be no Lindsey Vonn.
My husband, alternatively, grew up snowboarding and needed to get our daughter into the game when she was sufficiently old. So a couple of years in the past, I made a decision to provide it one other strive. Navigating the bunny slopes as a timid, middle-aged mother was humbling—particularly when my fearless baby flew previous me—however due to some very affected person instructors I started to get the cling of issues.
In the course of the pandemic, my household and I began escaping from our dwelling in New York Metropolis on common ski weekends all through the Northeast. Seems we have been a part of a development. In 2021, ski visits within the U.S. reached an all-time excessive, due to folks like us who have been searching for a solution to safely benefit from the nice open air.
Vail Resorts additionally contributed to the development when it launched the “Epic for Everybody” idea, lowering the value of an annual Epic Cross to assist appeal to newcomers. It labored: I turned one of many tens of millions who signed on to be an Epic Cross Holder in 2021/22 (2.1 million folks, to be actual). The numbers went even increased through the newest ski season—up 6% to 2.3 million.
A selfie on Vail Mountain with (from left) Sabine, Rahul and Lucy.
Testing the Epic Cross
Over the primary two seasons of getting an Epic Cross, I managed to take a look at plenty of mountains all through the Northeast with my household. We conquered the greens at beginner-friendly Jack Frost-Large Boulder in Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains. We dive-bombed down Hunter Mountain in New York’s Catskills. We navigated a few of Vermont’s southernmost slopes at Mount Snow. We checked out family-friendly Okemo in Vermont. We made our solution to the summit of Vermont’s highest peak at Stowe Mountain Resort. And that was only for starters.
With only a handful of ski days every season, the Epic Cross paid off—however one of many massive perks, after all, is having access to critical mountains world wide, together with Colorado resorts like Vail and Crested Butte, Park Metropolis in Utah and Whistler Blackcomb in Canada—simply to call a couple of. Relying on which Epic Cross you purchase, you additionally get entry to companion resorts like Colorado’s Telluride.
Now, I used to be lastly prepared to take a look at these next-level perks.
A nighttime view of Vail.
The Lay of the Land
On condition that Vail Resorts is the model behind the Epic Cross, it’s no shock that the corporate has plenty of resorts within the Colorado Rockies. Having so many choices was a bit mind-boggling, however Rahul had a plan: to separate the journey between a number of mountains. Since his spouse, Nisha, is not a skier, he selected places with a vigorous après ski scene. And since we have been touring with my 10-year-old daughter, Lucy, and Rahul’s 9-year-old daughter, Sabine, we needed to ensure every part was family-friendly.
The plan was to remain in Breckenridge (a sprawling, beginner-friendly mountain) and likewise try close by Keystone (a ski-first resort that’s a bit extra value-oriented). Then we’d head to Vail (which is understood for its glitz and legendary again bowls) with some snowboarding at close by Beaver Creek (a family-friendly slope close to Vail).
What’s nice in regards to the ski resorts within the Rockies is how shut they’re to one another. Breckenridge and Keystone are a 20-minute drive aside, so you possibly can simply bounce backwards and forwards. About an hour west is Vail and Beaver Creek, that are additionally round 20 minutes aside.
Heading up the mountain on Vail’s Cascade elevate.
The Snowboarding
As a newbie who’s used to East Coast mountains that wrap up by early March, it stunned me simply how late into the season among the Colorado resorts keep open. As an illustration, Breckenridge’s slopes don’t shut till late Could.
The climate was additionally a shock. Even single-digit days have been nice (one thing you’ll by no means hear me say when the wind chill dips out east). Possibly it’s being so near the solar or perhaps it’s Colorado’s dry local weather—nevertheless it simply didn’t really feel as chilly.
One factor that wasn’t a shock: The snowboarding is healthier right here, and in any case that observe on icy East Coast slopes, I discovered my confidence hovering in Colorado. The powder is actually one thing to behold. It’s gentle and fluffy and simpler to navigate. And in contrast to the inexperienced runs on the East Coast, the place you’re down the mountain in a couple of minutes, the Colorado inexperienced trails went on ceaselessly. I spent way more time on the snow and fewer time on the chairlifts.
I additionally cherished with the ability to pattern so many mountains throughout a brief journey. And because of the huge expanses of house, even on essentially the most crowded days, the elevate traces have been by no means lengthy and there was tons of room to stretch out.
The Eddy Taproom & Resort in Golden, Colorado
Acclimating is Necessary
If you happen to’re coming from a spot just like the East Coast, it’s vital to acclimate earlier than you head into the Rockies, since altitude illness is an actual factor. So we determined to spend a pair days within the Denver space earlier than making our manner into the mountains. Within the hip LoDo neighborhood, we shopped for cowboy shirts at Rockmount Ranch Put on (my dad’s favourite Western gear retailer), checked out the Cruise Room on the Oxford Resort (the place my grandfather used to have lunch again within the day), and took selfies in entrance of Union Station (the place my dad caught the prepare to go on trip when he was younger).
We stayed on the Eddy Taproom & Resort in close by Golden, Colorado, just a little city within the foothills of the Rockies with an industrial previous. Constructed on the situation of a former brickwork manufacturing facility, the Eddy has a loft-like design that pays homage to its craftsman roots, whereas the restaurant serves mountain delicacies like mac & cheese with brisket burnt ends, alongside craft brews. The city of Golden is the house of Coors (which is an enormous attraction), however there’s a lot extra to do and see, from trendy boutiques to chill eating places.
On the chairlift at Breckenridge.
Plan Properly
With regards to plotting out your itinerary, it’s a good suggestion to ski on the decrease altitude mountains first. The city of Breckenridge sits at 9,600 toes versus the bottom of Keystone (9,280 toes) and Vail (8,120).
We made the error of beginning at Breckenridge, and the affect of the altitude was actual. You wouldn’t suppose that a couple of hundred toes would make a distinction, however I seen how a lot simpler it was at Keystone. (In line with Emily, our ski information at Keystone, I wasn’t imagining issues—your sleep is even just a little extra restful at a decrease altitude.) If I may do it over, I’d have gone to Vail first and labored our manner as much as Breck.
Talking of planning, I virtually rented an inexpensive Toyota Corolla, considering that it wouldn’t be that snowy in late March. However it snowed each day (even on days when my climate app referred to as for a 0% likelihood of snow). And after hitting a couple of squalls on the mountain passes and even some black ice on the freeway, I used to be grateful to have upgraded to a four-wheel-drive Jeep Wrangler.
The Grand Hyatt Vail with the Cascade chairlift.
Lodges and Lodging
When you will have the Epic Cross, you will get a 20% low cost at some resorts. However since we booked late within the season, costs at numerous the spots have been excessive. So we spent three nights at an Airbnb in Breckenridge that was a few 10-minute stroll from the slopes. It was good to have the facilities of a rental, and the city has free shuttles so that you simply don’t have to fret about parking on the mountain. But when I may do it once more, I’d go for a ski-in ski-out property like the brand new design-focused Gravity Haus Breck, the place we had dinner one evening at its funky in-house restaurant, Cabin Juice. (Professional-tip: E book early within the season to get one of the best charges.)
In Vail, we splurged on a room on the Grand Hyatt, a ski-in ski-out property set on the base of the Cascade Village elevate. Being at a resort with its personal virtually non-public elevate was a game-changer. And it didn’t damage that the Grand Hyatt has stunning sizzling tubs and a heated outside pool overlooking the Gore River. The resort additionally has tons of enjoyable facilities for après and past: champagne sabering classes, an ax-throwing bar, a golf simulator, a sport room with air hockey, fireplace pits with s’mores for roasting, the record goes on.
A comfortable nook at Alpenrose Vail.
The Après Scene
Moreover the snowboarding, the cities themselves are epic. Breckenridge is a former mining city, and behind the outdated Western façades you’ll discover each form of retailer you possibly can consider, from ski gear to toys to clothes. There’s some very subtle eating like Rootstalk and the Breckenridge Distillery, combined in with family-friendly eating places like Giampietro Pasta & Pizzeria and Downstairs at Erics (which the youngsters cherished for the connected arcade).
Vail is likely one of the largest ski mountains within the nation, celebrating its sixtieth anniversary this 12 months—and, no shock— the alternatives for high-end eating and designer buying are countless. Fur hasn’t gone out of favor right here, and if you’re out there for a pair of $695 paint-splattered denims, that is the place. However I additionally discovered it surprisingly family-friendly with shops like Needs (toy heaven) and eating places just like the Swiss Chalet Restaurant, which feels such as you’ve been transported to a mountainside in Switzerland and makes a speciality of every kind of fondue—at all times a kid-pleaser. We did all of it: cheese fondue, meat fondue, chocolate fondue.
One other meals spotlight: Alpenrose, which was taken over a couple of years in the past by Alyssa Thoma and her brother Joshua, who additionally run Vail’s red-hot Almresi. They’ve reworked the house with fake fur throws and rose particulars in every single place you look. There are additionally non-public gondolas exterior which you could lease for a personal eating expertise. The meals places a contemporary spin on conventional Swiss and Austrian dishes, with highlights just like the Roasti Ballchen (potato balls full of Swiss cheese, bacon and bitter cream) and the Hax’n (a roasted pork shank served with a recent baked German pretzel, mustard and Obazda cheese).
A view of the Grand Hyatt Vail on Gore Creek.
The Takeaway
Trying again, it’s exhausting to imagine that I used to be so apprehensive about snowboarding out West. That Colorado freedom that Rahul talked about was actual—and the superb cities took issues to the nexy degree. I walked away on a real mountain excessive and am already planning my subsequent Epic getaway.
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